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LETTER 373（第1页）

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LETTER373

CHARLESLAMBTOCHARLESCHAMBERS

[Undated.May，1825.]

WithregardtoaJohn-dory，whichyoudesiretobeparticularlyinformedabout，Ihonourthefish，butitisratheronaccountofQuinwhopatronisedit，andwhosetaste（ofadeadman）Ihadaslievegobyasanybodys（ApiciusandHeliogabalusexcepted—thislatterstartednightingalestonguesandpeacocksbrainsasagarnish）.

Elseinitself，andtrustingtomyownpoorsinglejudgment，ithathnotthatmoistmellowoleaginousglidingsmoothdescentfromthetonguetothepalate，thencetothestomach，&c.，thatyourBrightonTurbothath，whichItaketobethemostfriendlyandfamiliarflavorofanythatswims—mostgenialandathometothepalate.

Norhasitontheotherhandthatfinefallingoffflakiness，thatoleaginouspeelingoff（asitwere，likeaseaonion），whichendearsyourcodshead&shoulderstosomeappetites;thatmanlyfirmness，binedwithasortofwomanishing-in-pieces，whichthesamecodshead&shouldershath，wherethewholeiseasilyseparable，plianttoaknifeoraspoon，buteachindividualflakepresentsapleasingresistancetotheopposedtooth.Youunderstandme—thesedelicatesubjectsarenecessarilyobscure.

Butithasathirdflavorofitsown，perfectlydistinctfromCodorTurbot，whichitmustbeownedmaytosomenotinjudiciouspalatesrenderitacceptable—buttomyunpractisedtoothitpresentedratheracruderiver-fish-flavor，likeyourPikeorCarp，andperhapslikethemshouldhavebeentamed&correctedbysomelaborious&wellchosensauce.StillIalwayssuspectafishwhichrequiressomuchofartificialsettings-off.Yourchoicestrelishes（likenaturesloveliness）neednottheforeignaidofornament，butarewhenunadorned（thatis，withnothingbutalittleplainanchovy&asqueezeoflemon）thenadornedthemost.However，IshallgotoBrightonagainnextSummer，andshallhaveanopportunityofcorrectingmyjudgment，ifitisnotsufficientlyinformed.IcanonlysaythatwhenNaturewaspleasedtomaketheJohnDorysonotoriouslydeficientinoutwardgraces（astobesureheistheveryRhinocerosoffishes，theugliestdogthatswims，exceptperhapstheSeaSatyr，whichIneversaw，butwhichtheysayisterrible），whensheformedhimwithsofewexternaladvantages，shemighthavebestowedamoreelaboratefinishinhispartsinternal，&havegivenhimarelish，asapor，toremendhim，asshemadePopeaPoettomakeupformakinghimcrooked.

Iamsorrytofindthatyouhavegotaknackofsayingthingswhicharenottruetoshewyourwit.IfIhadnowitbutwhatImustshewattheexpenceofmyvirtueormymodesty，Ihadaslievebeasstupidas***attheTeaWarehouse.Dependuponit，mydearChambers，thatanounceofintegrityatourdeath-bedwillstandusinmoreavailthanallthewitofCongreveor…Forinstance，youtellmeafinestoryaboutTruss，andhisplayingatLeamington，whichIknowtobefalse，becauseIhaveadvicefromDerbythathewaswhiptthroughtheTownonthatverydayyousayheappearedinsomecharacterorother，forrobbinganoldwomanatchurchofasealring.AndDr.Parrhasbeentwomonthsdead.Soitwontdotoscattertheseuntruestoriesaboutamongpeoplethatknowanything.Besides，yourforteisnotinvention.Itisjudgment，particularlyshowninyourchoiceofdishes.Weseeminthatinstancebornunderonestar.Ilikeyouforlikinghare.Iesteemyoufordisrelishingmincedveal.Likingistoocoldaword.—Iloveyouforyournobleattachmenttothefatunctuousjuicesofdeersflesh&thegreenunspeakableofturtle.Ihonouryouforyourendeavourstoesteemandapproveofmyfavorite，whichIventuredtoremendtoyouasasubstituteforhare，bullocksheart，andIamnotoffendedthatyoucannottasteitwithmypalate.AtruesonofEpicurusshouldreserveonetastepeculiartohimself.ForalongtimeIkeptthesecretabouttheexceedingdeliciousnessofthemarrowofboiledknuckleofveal，tillmytongueweaklyranriotinitspraises，andnowitisprostitute&mon.—ButIhavemadeonediscoverywhichIwillnotimparttillmydyingsceneisover，perhapsitwillbemylastmouthfulinthisworld:deliciousthought，enoughtosweeten（orrathermakesavoury）thehourofdeath.Itisalittlesquarebitaboutthissizeinorneartheknuckleboneofafriedjointof…fatIcantcallitnorlean

[Illustration:Handrawnsketch]

neitheraltogether，itisthatbeautifulpound，whichNaturemusthavemadeinParadiseParkvenison，beforesheseparatedthetwosubstances，thedry&theoleaginous，topunishsinfulmankind;Adamatethementire&inseparate，andthislittletasteofEdenintheknuckleboneofafried…seemstheonlyreliqueofaParadisaicalstate.WhenIdie，anexactdescriptionofitstopographyshallbeleftinacupboardwithakey，inscribedonwhichthesewords，"C.LambdyingimpartsthistoC.Chambersastheonlyworthydepositoryofsuchasecret."Youlldropatear….

[CharlesChamberswasthebrotherofJohnChambers（seeabove）.HehadbeenatChristsHospitalwithLambandsubsequentlybecameasurgeonintheNavy.HeretiredtoLeamingtonandpractisedthereuntilhisdeath，somewhenabout1857，saysMr.Hazlitt.Heseemstohaveinheritedsomeoftheepicurestastesofhisfather，the"sensibleclergymaninWarwickshire"who，Lambtellsusin"ThoughtsonPresentsofGame，""usedtoallowapoundofEppingtoeveryhare."

ThisletteraddsonemoretothelistofLambsgustatoryraptures，anditisremarkableasbeinghisonlyeulogyoffish.Mr.HazlittsaysthatthedateSeptember1，1817，hasbeenaddedbyanotherhand;butiftheremarkaboutDr.Parristrue（hediedMarch6，1825）thetimeisasIhavestated.Fortunatelythedateinthisparticularcaseisunimportant.Mr.HazlittsuggeststhatthestupidpersonintheTeaWarehousewasBye，whomwemetrecently.

OfTrussweknownothing.ThenamemaybeamisreadingofTwiss（HoraceTwiss，1787-1849，politician，buffoon，andMrs.Siddonsnephew），whowasquitealikelypersontobeliedaboutinjokeatthattime.

HereshouldeanotetoAllsopdatedMay29，1825，changinganappointment:"Iamasmadasthedevil."GivenintheBostonBibliophileedition.]

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